Most visitors never make it up here. They stay on the beaches, do a day trip to Lindos, maybe wander through Rhodes Old Town, and fly home thinking they’ve seen the island. They haven’t. They’ve seen the coastline. The real Rhodes, the one with pine forests, 1,200-metre peaks, kitchens that smell of oregano and woodsmoke, vineyards older than anyone remembers, and people who still make honey the way their grandparents did, lives up in the mountains. And the heart of that Rhodes is a small village called Embonas.

We live here. We run small-group experiences here. This guide is everything we’d tell a friend who asked us, “is Embonas worth the drive?”, what to see, where to eat, how to get here without getting lost, when to come, and the handful of things we think you genuinely shouldn’t miss.

 

Where is Embonas? The quick facts

Before the deep dive, here’s the at-a-glance version:

Location	Western interior of Rhodes, Greece (Dodecanese island group)
Elevation	~800 metres above sea level
Population	Around 1,100 residents
Closest mountain	Mount Attavyros — 1,215 m, the highest peak in Rhodes
Distance from Rhodes Town	~60 km / approx. 1 hour by car
Distance from Rhodes Airport (RHO)	~45 km / approx. 50 minutes by car
Distance from Lindos	~55 km / approx. 1 hour 15 minutes by car
Famous for	Wine (Athiri, Mandilaria), meat, honey, mountain air, hiking, wind-catching geography
Neighbouring villages	Siana (15 min), Kritinia (20 min), Salakos (30 min)

 

Embonas sits on the shoulder of Mount Attavyros, tucked into the western range that splits Rhodes in two. Drive east from the village, and you come down into the fertile plains that lead to Rhodes Town. Drive west and within fifteen minutes you’re at the coast, looking across at the island of Chalki. The village itself is small enough to walk end-to-end in twenty minutes, but big enough to have its own rhythm,  the church bells at 7am, the café crowd at 10am, the afternoon quiet, the tavernas coming alive at 8pm.

Why Embonas feels different from the rest of Rhodes

If you’ve already spent a few days in Faliraki or Rhodes Town, the change is immediate. The air is cooler. The horizon is a mountain, not sea. The menus are in Greek first. And nobody is trying to sell you a boat trip.

The altitude changes everything

At 800 metres, Embonas is often ten degrees cooler than the coast in summer. When Rhodes Town is baking at 36°C in August, we’re sitting in a taverna at a perfectly civilised 25°C with a breeze coming off Attavyros. That temperature differential is the reason locals have been coming up here to escape the heat for centuries, and it’s the reason vineyards thrive; grapes need cool nights to hold their acidity.

The wind has carved the village

Attavyros catches the meltemi wind that blows down the Aegean every summer. You can see it in the bent-over pines on the mountain’s upper slopes and in the way the village’s older houses sit low and turn their backs to the prevailing weather. It’s also why the honey here is exceptional, the wind carries the scent of wild thyme, oregano, and sage across the hillsides, and the bees follow it.

Tourism arrived late and lightly

Embonas isn’t on the cruise-ship circuit, isn’t on most day-tour itineraries, and doesn’t have a beach. Those three things combined have kept it relatively untouched. You’ll still see grandmothers making bread in outdoor ovens, men drinking coffee at 8 am tavernas, and children playing football in the main square. Come here to slow down, not to tick a box.

How to get to Embonas

There are three realistic ways up here. We’ve listed them in order of how we’d recommend them.

1. By rental car (the way we recommend)

Pick up a car at Rhodes Airport (RHO) or in Rhodes Town and drive the inland road. From the airport, it’s about 50 minutes; from the city, about an hour. The route climbs through Salakos, past the springs of Nymphs, and then the final 15 minutes are a winding mountain road through pine forest. Views from the last bend, just before the village, are worth slowing down for.

A compact car is fine; the road is sealed the whole way. Parking in the village is free and easy. We don’t recommend a scooter in summer unless you’re confident on mountain roads.

2. By public bus

KTEL Rhodes runs a daily bus from Rhodes Town to Embonas. The journey takes about 1 hour 45 minutes, depending on the season and the day of the week. There’s usually one bus up in the morning and one back in the afternoon, so it’s feasible as a day trip but not flexible. Check the latest timetable at the KTEL Rhodes website before you travel; summer and winter schedules are different.

3. By organised tour or private transfer

Most wine-tour operators from Rhodes Town include Embonas as a stop, but you’ll only get 60–90 minutes in the village, barely enough for a coffee and one winery. If you want to experience Embonas properly, book a private transfer or rent a car.

Pro tip: if you’re coming for a Rhodes cooking class or a Mount Attavyros hike, let us know when you book, and we can usually arrange pickup from Rhodes Town, Ialysos, Ixia or Faliraki.

When to visit Embonas

Embonas is a year-round village; it doesn’t close in winter the way the coastal resorts do. That said, each season looks different.

Season	Weather	What’s on	Who it suits
Spring (Apr–Jun)	15–25°C, wildflowers everywhere	Hiking season begins, lambs, Easter	Hikers, slow travellers, photographers
Summer (Jul–Aug)	25–32°C (cool for Rhodes)	Peak tourism, festivals, wine harvest prep	Families escaping coastal heat
Autumn (Sep–Oct)	18–28°C, grape harvest	Tryyata (grape harvest), chestnuts	Wine lovers, foodies
Winter (Nov–Mar)	5–15°C, occasional snow on Attavyros	Quiet village life, olive harvest, tsipouro nights	Travellers wanting the real thing

 

Our personal favourite is late September. The heat has gone, the grape harvest is happening, the hiking is perfect, and the tavernas get their rhythm back after the summer rush.

Things to do in Embonas

There’s more to do here than first-time visitors expect. Here’s what we’d actually recommend, roughly in order of how essential we think they are.

1. Take a traditional Greek cooking class with locals

This is what we built our own company around, so we’re biased, but learning to cook a Rhodian meal in a village kitchen is genuinely one of the best things you can do anywhere on the island. You’ll make pitaroudia (zucchini fritters), stuffed vegetables, traditional pitas, and a local dessert, then sit down to share it with a glass of Embonas wine. About 3–4 hours. Max 12 people. If you only do one thing in Embonas, make it this. Learn more and book →

2. Hike Mount Attavyros or the Sianna canyon

Attavyros is the highest peak on Rhodes (1,215 m) and it’s right above the village. On a clear day the summit views stretch from Turkey to Chalki. The easier option is our guided canyon hike through the ravine between Embonas and Sianna, with narrow passages, pine forest, raw mountain scenery, and you don’t need to be a serious hiker. Full details on the guided hike →

3. Visit the wineries

Embonas is the wine capital of Rhodes. There are at least five working wineries in and around the village, most of them family-run for generations.

The two grape varieties to try are Athiri (a crisp, lightly tropical white grown almost exclusively in Rhodes) and Mandilaria (a deep, spicy red traditionally used for the island’s communion wine).

4. Meet the bees and taste raw Rhodian honey

Rhodes thyme honey is legitimately world-class. The dry mountain climate, wild thyme and oregano, and the low-chemical environment all contribute to an aromatic, almost medicinal honey that regularly wins awards. You can taste it anywhere, but to actually understand it, spend a morning with a beekeeper. Our beekeeping experience takes you to the apiary, gets you suited up, and ends with raw honey straight from the comb.

5. Eat meat, slowly, for hours

Embonas is famous on Rhodes for its meat. For historical reasons, these were shepherding villages, and the local tavernas specialise in grilled lamb, goat, and pork in huge quantities. Order a mixed grill (“sti schara”) with a bottle of Mandilaria, and you have dinner for three people and a story for ten.

6. Visit the Church

The main church in the village is small, whitewashed, and at its best in the soft evening light. It’s an active church, so be respectful, cover your shoulders and knees if you go inside.

7. Drive the loop to Siana and Monolithos

If you have half a day, make the drive from Embonas down to Siana (famous for its spoon sweets, honey and suma, a local grape spirit) and on to Monolithos Castle, which sits on a 200-metre pinnacle with impossible views. Make a stop at Fournoi beach on the way back, and you’ve seen the wild west of Rhodes in one afternoon.

8. Swim with dolphins and sail to Alimia Island

Embonas is inland, but it’s only 15 minutes from the coast at Kamiros Skala. From there, our marine life experience runs dolphin spotting in the channel between Rhodes and Chalki, snorkeling in protected waters, and a stop at Alimia, an uninhabited Natura-2000-listed island with crystal-clear bays and the haunting remains of an old Italian submarine base.

9. Walk the vineyards at sunset

The vineyards east of the village catch the evening light beautifully. There’s no formal trail, just follow the dirt roads that lead out past the cooperative winery. September, when the vines are heavy with fruit, is the best time; you’ll usually bump into at least one farmer happy to explain what they’re growing.

Where to eat in Embonas

Food in Embonas is traditional, generous, and almost always better than the same dish on the coast. A few tavernas we send friends to:

• Maroulakis Taverna

• Taverna Savvas

• Empona’s View

• Taverna Ilias

• Bakis Taverna

Where to stay in Embonas

Embonas is primarily a day-trip destination, but staying overnight is the single biggest upgrade you can make to your experience of the village. You get the pre-dawn quiet, the evening tavernas, and a real sense of mountain life. Options are limited and small-scale, which is part of the charm.

• Guesthouses & rooms to let: a handful of family-run places in the village centre, usually bookable through Booking.com or directly by phone. Expect simple, clean, honest.
• Agrotourism stays: a couple of stone-built houses on the village edge with views toward Attavyros; book well ahead in high season.
• Coastal base within reach: if you want to combine Embonas with beach days, consider Haraki or Kamiros, both within a 45-minute drive.

 

Practical tips for visiting Embonas

• Cash vs card: most places take cards, but you can carry a small amount of cash.
• Phone signal: 4G is reliable in the village, patchy on the mountain. Download offline maps before a hike.
• Fuel: Two petrol stations are available in the village, but it’s really recommended to fill up before driving up.
• ATMs: there is a bank ATM in the village, but it runs out over long weekends. Bring cash from Rhodes Town.
• Layers: even in July the evenings can drop to 18°C. Bring a light jacket.
• Shoes: if you plan to hike or walk the vineyards, proper footwear matters. The mountain is serious.
• Respect: this is a living village, not an open-air museum. Don’t photograph people without asking.

 

Is Embonas worth visiting?

If you’re on Rhodes for two days, maybe not, you’ll be stretched. If you’re here for three or more, absolutely yes. Embonas isn’t spectacular in the way Lindos is spectacular; it’s slow, understated, and the pleasure of being there is cumulative. You eat better, sleep better, meet people, and leave with a sense that you understood the island, rather than just visited it.

Come for the wine and the cooler air. Stay for the stories. Come back for the people.

Frequently asked questions about Embonas

Is Embonas worth a day trip from Rhodes Town?

Yes, but only if you give it a full day. A 90-minute bus-tour stop barely gets you a coffee and a rushed winery tasting. Plan a full day, or better, stay overnight, to actually experience the village. You can contact us; we’d love to arrange your stay here.

How long does it take to drive from Rhodes Town to Embonas?

About 60 minutes in normal traffic. The last 15 minutes are a winding mountain road, so allow a little longer if you’re not used to driving on mountain roads.

What is Embonas famous for?

Wine, meat, honey, and its location on the slopes of Mount Attavyros, the highest mountain on Rhodes. It’s also known as one of the most traditional villages still standing on the island.

Can you hike Mount Attavyros from Embonas?

Yes. Mount Attavyros (1,215 m) sits directly above the village, and the summit trail takes around 3.5–4 hours uphill. Self-guided is possible, but the upper section is exposed; we run a small-group guided hike for anyone who’d rather go with a local.

Is there a cooking class in Embonas?

Yes, our own Rhodes cooking class is run entirely in Embonas and is built around traditional Rhodian recipes. Small groups of up to 12, approx. 3–4 hours, includes a full meal with local wine.

How many wineries are in Embonas?

Around five working wineries in and immediately around the village, from the large Emery Winery to small family estates like Alexandris, Kounakis, and Tsoukalas. Most welcome walk-in visitors during the day; call ahead in winter.

When is the grape harvest in Embonas?

Typically mid-September, depending on the weather. If you visit during that window, you’ll often see grapes being brought into the wineries in crates, one of the best times to see the village working.

Is Embonas open in winter?

Yes. Unlike the coastal resorts, Embonas is a year-round village. Some tavernas reduce their days, but at least two are open every day of the week. Winter is quieter, colder, and more authentic.

Can you see snow in Embonas?

Occasionally, yes. Mount Attavyros gets a dusting of snow most winters, and every few years the village itself sees snowfall, usually in January or February. Not something you can plan for, but memorable when it happens.

Is Embonas family-friendly?

Very. The village is safe, the pace is slow, and the tavernas are happy to feed children. Our cooking and beekeeping experiences work well for families; the hike and marine trips are better suited to age 8 and up.

Make Embonas the heart of your Rhodes trip

Everything on this page, the wine, the mountain, the food, the people, is on our doorstep. If you’d like to experience the village the way we experience it every day, we’d love to show you around.

See our four authentic experiences in Embonas →

Questions? Contact us directly →